Thursday 7th October - Cuzco

Whooooooo - high altitude here (c. 3800m). Tried coca leaves, but still felt awful. Sitting on a high stool in the upstairs of a restaurant finally threw me. Felt faint and sick, as if I had the worst hangover ever. Had to sit on a low chair, as if the few inches would help. Recovered after eating soup and taking a Soroche pill. Learnt via Facebook yesterday that Helen had lost her struggle with CF. Have known all Helen's life that her time would be short, and she managed against the odds to have a relatively good innings to reach 31 - better than the expected age span. Still difficult to comprehend though - we had all hoped she would have a lung transplant and have a few good years left. My heart went out to Tony, Doreen, Andy and the rest of the family. Friends and relatives started leaving messages on FB which seemed fitting somehow, and a wonderful confirmation that she was indeed a special young lady who seemed to inspire love and respect from a lot of people. Our breathlessness up here brought home to me how horrible it must have been for Helly, fighting for the next breath.

The Hostal was not anywhere near as good as the reviews suggested and we're in search of a new home as soon as we can. The hotelier sold us tour as soon we arrived. Lesson #1 don't buy things when you're knackered.

Did an impromptu tour of Cuzco on a lovely old tourist train.

Going to the Sacred Valley tomorrow.

Wed. 6th October - Miraflores, Lima

Having done a bit of research online, and convinced ourselves there was a good side to Chorillos, we took a taxi again, but in the daylight. Taxi driver again nonplussed. We found a restaurant we had seen online, called the Salto de Fraille (Brother's Leap - another monk, this time one whose heart had been broken, so jumped off a cliff into the sea!) The taxi driver was willing to show us the restaurant, but told us firmly it was too expensive! He actually showed us the small group of shoreline restaurants I had originally read about, where the fishermen sell their day's catch, but warned us not to eat there without a taxi waiting - even in daylight. Admittedly it was the last bit of civilisation for miles, but just how dangerous could it be?? We were not willing to test this rhetorical question however, and scuttled back to Miraflores. Spent a second mortgage on coffee at the odd LarcoMar shopping centre.

Finally made it to the incredible Water Circuit in Lima. 14 water based installations. Wow!

Tuesday 5th October - back to Lima

Stayed at Inka Lodge, in Miraflores, in a room on the roof that felt like a garage - very odd. Followed my mild obsession to find out if the coastal town of Chorillos was any more interesting than Miraflores. Asked the taxi driver to take us somewhere to eat in Chorillos. We knew this was an unusual request for a tourist, but did not expect to be taken to a huge shopping centre.. suspect this was a worried taxi driver's way of fulfilling our request, and keeping us safe. The shopping centre was the most depressing place, and for the first time I was overwhelmed with a longing for home. Partly due to worrying news from home that Helen is terribly ill. Partly due the depressing feeling that everyone was being sold a North American dream of happiness - people were queueing at the bank, presumably for loans, and the tvs and white goods were stacked up to improve people's lives. I know it's understandable that everyone wants to see progress and modern improvements, but after Otavalo, it was somehow a bit sad.. Took a taxi back to Barranco, and went to the lovely Mirador bar, stopping en route for a drink in an old railway carriage which used to be used on one of the many now-defunct railway lines. The carriage was built in England and shipped over in 1820.

Monday 4th October - Quito

Sadly checked out from the Hostal. Luis picked us up and took us down to Quito, again a beautiful drive. Families farm the land seemingly by hand, and apparently organically, as the land is so fertile (due to the volcanic ash), there is no need for fertilisers. Checked into the Travellers' Inn, a bit quieter than the last Quito hotel. Still a bit of a wrench coming back to hectic Quito after the calm of Otavalo. Ate at an odd restaurant who's theme was a famous monk who used to slip out of the Monastery to visit women, and climbed out by standing on the shoulders of a handily placed statue of Jesus. Eventually the statue sighed and said 'Brother, until when?' which brought the Monk to his senses, and back to the fold. Drank my first (and last) Cuba Libre. Frankly...yuk.

Sunday 3rd October - Otavalo

The Hostal's friendly taxi driver, Luis, took us to Parque Condor, to see a collection of hawks, eagles, owls, Condors - all either rescued or donated, so they live in aviaries, or are tethered. Fascinating but sad to see these birds - healthy but defeated looking - who should be soaring amongst the mountains. We watched a display of some of the birds too, in an amazing setting - an amphitheatre on a green mountainside from where you could watch the birds swoop away and come back to the handlers. Odd to see the iconic American Eagle in the flesh! Back to the Dona Esther for the BEST meal yet, or for a long time - Chicken in Ecuadorian chocolate sauce, and bananas baked with chocolate & rum sauce with little chocolate pearls. Patrick had to roll me upstairs to bed...

Saturday 2nd October -- Otavalo

What bliss, travelling to a town with the express intention of shopping! Oh for a bigger bag though! Still, managed to buy a couple of hats, small picture, wood carving, and Patrick gave in to his wish for a Charrango. Local women here have a strict dresscode of long straight skirts with white blouses and a sort of cummerband embroidered in reds and blues. Black hats completed the picture. The less formal outfit seems to be full skirts with the blouse, and the black hats. Makes for a very decorative feel around the markets, and made me feel a complete scruff in my travel get-up. All the women seem very attractive. Oh, and all the men have the most amazing long black hair. No one seems to go grey unless very elderly. The life here is comparatively prosperous, life-expectancy is long, and everyone seems happy - lots of smiling faces. It seems such a healthy place - fresh air, local fresh food, music, community. In the afternoon, escaped the commerce by visiting the Peguche waterfall, lots of birdlife and nice green countryside. In the evening, ate on Sucre Street, slight mistake as this seems to be the street the young lads drive slowly up with the huge sound systems in their cars going full blast. Looked for a local Pena where there was live music, but the 'show' didn't start till 10pm, and we just can't do late nights - maybe the altitude still making us tired, or just very relaxed from all the fresh air. As luck would have it, we found a bar with a band playing, so were treated yet again to the inevitable Guantanamera, La Bamba and bloody El Condor Pasa.

Friday 1st October - to Otavalo

Riots settled so we could fly as planned. Flew into Quito, and took a cab to Otavalo up in the mountains, famous for its markets. Drive was long and very scenic - the most lush, green and fertile countryside we have yet seen, despite the mountainous terrain. Checked into the Dona Esther Hostal - a wonderful place, arranged around a courtyard filled with flowers and greenery. Room was whitewashed with dark wood and a comfortable bed. Restaurant was candle lit and inviting, we had dinner here, serenaded by the local pan pipe and Charrango band. The food was very good too. Immediately extended our stay by one day - having six weeks to play with is such luxury.