25th September 2010.
Espanola Island.
To another sparkling white beach with bluey-green clear waters. Huge colony of sea lions basking in the sun. How many photos can you take of these anthropomorphically relaxed creatures? Several hundred, apparently. Completely irresistible. They were mostly unworried and divided their time between snoozing together on the warm sand, and lazily playing in the shallows. Only the big males reminded us of the darker side of life for these creatures, as they have their circle of females for only around a month, after which they are basically knackered, lose a fight with a fitter male, and go off to Plazas Island to recuperate. Patrick was investigated by a curious young sea lion who flipped up towards him for a better look. So lovely to be able to be close to these creatures who feel no fear towards us. Complete privilege. Back to boat, sailed to Garners Islet where, in the huge cave, you could see the base of a blowhole. Surrounded by sea lions playing around us. Snorkelled from Panga, right around the rocks, but kept getting left behind due to my refusal to wear flippers. Soon got over that one, and used them after this – way too much work swimming in a wetsuit – my legs were tired afterwards. In the afternoon, walked around Suarez Point to see nesting Albatross with fluffy youngsters, so silly with their rough but soft feathers next to their sleek beautiful golden necked parents. Lots of Blue Footed Boobies, including some doing their stately dance, which just makes you laugh – tail up, head in the air, wings neatly folded back, and these daft blue feet raising one by one to impress the ladeez. Also our first encounter with the spooky iguanas – Marine ones this time – black and red and fat, sitting absorbing the rays, and simply climbing on top of each other as the sun went down. Incredible abundance of wildlife, you could not turn without seeing Mocking Birds, Finches, Yellow Warblers, herons, BF Boobies, Albatrosses, Frigate-birds, lizards and Iguanas. Back on board, managed to stay awake long enough to take a beer out on deck, enjoy the moon and the splashing of sea lions and turtles. I missed the owls who flew round the boat later, but could not keep my eyes open any longer than 10pm. Jx
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